Jane eobbert



1:0. 748,792. 7 PATENTED JAN. 5,1904.

' J. ROBBBRT,

APBLIANGE FOR DRAFTING GARMENTS.

APPLICATION FILED DBO. 31, 1900.

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PATENTBD JAN. 5, 1904.

J. ROBBERT. APPLIANCE FOR DRAFTING GARMENTS.

APPLIOATi0H FILED DEC. 31, 1900.

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UNIT D STATES- Patented January 5, 1904.

" PAT NT OFFICE.

APPLIANCE FOR- DRAFTING GARMENTS.

srncrrxcn'rron forming part of Letters Patent No 748,792, dated January5, 1904. Application filed December 31, 1900. Serial No. 41.605- (Nomodel.)

.To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, JANE ROBBERT, a citizen of the United States,residing in the city and county of San Francisco, State of California,have invented an Improvement in Appliances for Drafting Garments; and Ihereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact descriptionof the'same.

My invention relates to improvements in adjustable appliances fordrafting garments,

' the same being particularly adapted for use in determining the propercontour of the various parts forming the body and skirt ofthe waistportions of ladies and childrens garments,such as jackets, coats,shirt-waists, or the like. This device is simple in construction and amore compact-device than those ordinarily in use, so that the number ofparts necessary to cut the garment is less, and the widest possiblerange is given for the constant change both of the fashions and of themeasurements of different individuals. the cutting of the popularso-called shirtwaist my device has certain valuable features which willbe touched upon later.

My device consists of two pattern forms, each composed of suitablematerial, preferably of fiat metal strips peculiarly shaped andconnected adjustable with each other anrl'which can be set in accordancewith the measurements of difierent individuals. By one oftheseappliances isdrafted the back and side body, as it is called, andalso a second side-body piece, which is used, if desired, for stoutpersons, and the other appliance is for drafting the front andunder-arm" piece of a garment. Each of these parts is cut in duplicateby the pattern, as is usual.

Myinvention is illustrated in the drawings, in which Figure 1 shows theback-piece of a garment cut by my devicewith the optional seam 2i shownin dotted lines. Fig. 2 represents the side-body piece. Fig. 3illustrates the part of my device used in delineating theabove-mentioned pieces and also the second side-body piece abovereferred to, and Fig. 4 shows the part of. my device used in 1delineating the front and under-arm pieces of a garment. I

In order to have a clear understanding of the operation of'theseappliances, it is neces- "sary first to describe the various parts,after ,are forchilds armhole measurements.

which I will illustrate by actual measure ments how these appliances areset.

' Having reference to the drawings, Fig. 3, A is the shoulder piece, ofelongated form,

having an oblique slot 2 and a longitudinal slot 3. Near the edge 4 ofthis piece are graduations forshoulder measurements. The adjacent orneckedge 5 has neck graduations marked thereon. for indicating the sizeof the back of the neck, and near the middle of this shoulderpiece is a.second series of graduations 2, corresponding to the graduations at edge5, which is used for indicating the slope of the shoulder. Thisshoulderpiece has a downwardly-extending slotted strip 16.

H is a bust-strip having bnstmeasure graduations thereon for indicatingthe width of the back. and side-body pieces across the shoulder. piece Hto strip 16 and is movable in the slot thereof.

B is a back-piece having an oblique edge B. This back-piece is placed onpiece A, so that its edge B is parallel with edge 4 and is adj ustablysecured to piece A by a screw passing through slot 2 and piece B. Thisserves to connect pieces A and B, so that the latter may be shifted inan angular direction on pieceA, and its. edge B codperatessimultaneously on corresponding points on scale 2 and the scale at edge5. This adjustment determines thesize of the back of the neck and theslope of the shoulder. This back-piece tapers downwardly and has alongitudinal which are graduations '7 for the length of the back. A

O is an armhole-piece of segmental form and has a curved slot 8 in itscenter portion and has two series of graduations marked thereon, theouter series reading from the shoulder down in inches, and the innerseries This piece 0 is adjustably secured to the shoulderpiece A by aset-screw passing through slot 3 and piece 0. D is a side-body pieceslidably secured to piece 0 by a set-screw passing through its upper endand through slot 8. A supplementary piece 0, having a concavede'ii'ge17, is located beneath the pieces 0 ahd D and is adjustably secured tosaid A rivet-pivot adjustably secures slot b parallel with its edge.6,'at the side of pieces by the same set-screw which secures piece D topiece 0. This piece 0 is used in connection with the inner series ofgraduations on piece 0. The concaved edge 10 of this piece D is used tooutline the'curved seams of the back and side-body pieces, and its edge9 is used for outlining the seam from the waist to the shoulder. .Itsedges 9 and 10 may determine in a point; 10 This point is used forpositioning the edge 18 of piece G, which will be presently described.

E is'a side-body piece having a concaved edge and a convexed edge andhas a longitudinal slot 11 parallel with its side edges. This piece isslidably secured to the armhole-piece G at the graduation 4 by setscrewE passing through its upper end and through slot 8. The position of thispiece need not be changed for any ordinary garment.

E is an auxiliary side-body piece similarly curved as the piece E andlocated beneath the latter and is provided with a slotted extension e,by which it isadjustably secured with piece E to the armhole-piece O byset-screw E passing through the slot in said extension. This auxiliarypiece is employed when it is desired to out a second side-body piece,and when not in use it is concealed beneath the piece E.

F is a waist-piece having a downward-flared extension F. Thiswaist-piece has a horizontal slot 12 and has three series of graduationsmarked thereon, the upper series corresponding to the full waistmeasurement,and is used for indicating the width of the back andside-body pieces at the waist. The second series of graduations areadjacent to the lower edge of slot 12, and this scale is so arrangedthat its graduations indicate the sum of the width of the back andside-body pieces at the waist and which may be read opposite the desiredwaist-measure on the upper series and is for the purpose of ascertainingthe size of the darts,which will be presently described. Below thesecond series of graduations on piece F is a third scale, which isemployed when it is desired to have a second side-body piece. On theunder side of the flared hippiece F at the waist is a sheath 15. (Shownin dotted lines in Fig. 3.) The lower portion of the auxiliary piece Eis adjustably secured to piece F by its lower end passing through sheath15 and is adjustable longitudinally in said sheath.

G is a flared (waist-line) piece and is used fol-outlining the flare tothe skirt of the backpiece and also the flare to the back portion of theside-body piece. This piece G has a transverse slot 13, and on the underside of this piece is a sheath 14, which is parallel with slot 13 andextends from edge 18 to the outer longitudinal edge of piece G and isglued or soldered to piece G near-these edges, as shown in dotted lines,Fig. 3. The lower portion of the side-body piece D passes through saidsheath. This connection adjustably secures piece D to piece G forlongitudinal and lateral adjustments. The waistpiece F is placedcrosswise of the pieces B, D, E, and E, and its slot 12 crosses slot 11and 1) approximately at right angles, and a set-screw passing throughslots 11 and 12 adjustably secures pieces F and E together. Piece G isplaced so that its slot 13 is in alinement with slot 12 and a set-screwpassing through slots 12, 13, and b and which serves to hold pieces B,F, and G in position for longitudinal and lateral adjustments and alsoclamps piece D, which slides in sheath 14 between pieces F and G. Thisconnection also serves to hold pieces B, D, and G together for lateraladjustmentwith relation to pieces F and E. By a longitudinal adjustmentof piece F in slots 11 and b sheaths 14 and 15 are adjustedlongitudinally with piece F on pieces D and E and by a lateraladjustment of piece F with relation to piece G. The pieces B D E G andthe extension F will resume their proper relative positions from whichto outline the seams of the back and side-body pieces of the garment andthe flare below the waist of said pieces in one adjusting operation.

With the parts thus described we are now ready to adjust the appliance,Fig. 3, for to outline those portions of the garment known as the backand side body pieces, as shown, respectively, in Figs. 1 and 2, wewillassume the measurements of the individual for whom the garment isintended to be as follows: These following measures are given in inches:neck, thirteen; shoulder, five; armhole at the shoulder, thirteen; back,sixteen; under arm, beneath the arm to the waist, eight; bust,thirty-eight; waist, twenty-four, and front, from the back of the neckto the front of the waist-line, nineteen.

First, to set the back the back-piece B is moved in slot 2 on theshoulder-piece A, so that its edge B registers with neck graduations 13at edge 5 and simultaneously to the corresponding graduation 13 on scale2 and secured by set-screw in slot 2. The arm holepiece 0 is moved inslot 3 on piece A and set at graduation 5, shoulder-measure.

The bust-piece H is moved in a horizontal position to the graduation 4on the armholepiece 0. The lower part of the armhole-piece O is movedlaterally" on its pivot until its outer edge cooperates with thegraduation 38 (bust-measure) on the piece H, and piece 0 is secured topiece A by the set-screw in slot 3. The waist-piece F is next shiftedlongitudinally in slots 1) and 11, and the piece G is carriedlongitudinally with piece F, and the upper edges of these pieces F and Gare set to graduations 16, back-measure, on scale 7, and approximatelyat rightangles thereto. Then the piece F is shifted laterally, so thatthe graduation 24:, waist-measure, is read at the edge 18 of piece G. Asbefore stated, by this longitudinal and lateral adjustment of piece Fthepieces B D G Erma the extension F will resume the proper relativeposition from which to outline the seams of the back and side-bodypiecesof the garment and the flare below the waist of said pieces. Thecurve or relative width of these pieces can be varied, if desired,without changing the combined width. By moving the piece D laterally-insheath 14 relatively to the pieces B and E by shifting the piece Dupwardly on the armhole-piece O narrows the back and widens the sidebody, and a downward movement widens the back and narrows the side body.The lower portion of piece D, which slides longitudinally in sheath 14,makes it easy to perform this operation.

The back-piece proper is outlined as follows: the edge 4 of theshoulder-piece A, edge 6 of the piece B, and the outer and innorlongitudinal edges of piece G, edge 10 of the piece D to the armholefrom edge 10 along the armhole-piece O to shoulder. Then this applianceis shifted over on another part of the goods to outline the sidebodypieces and is outlined along the flaring edge of extension F and edge 50of the piece E and from the top of edge 50 of piece E along thearmhole-piece C to edge 10 of the piece D and edge 10 of the piece Dfrom armhole to waist. Piece G is swung upon its pivot, so that the edge'18 thereof lies at its upper end in line with the side-body line justtraced, and the lower inner edge 18 of piece G is positioned at thepoint 10 of piece D and is outlined on the edge 18, as shown in dottedlines in Fig. 2. When it is desired to have a seam from the shoulder towaist, as shown in dotted lines on Fig. 1, a seam can be outlined alongthe inner edge 9 of piece D.

Another advantage of my device is that it maybe more readily employedfor cuttinggarments, such as these-called Eton jacket that is, a garmenthaving the back and side body parts in one piece. This is done by simplyfolding the goods and placing the edge 6 of the back-piece B upon thefold and then outlining the neck, shoulder, armhole, and edge 50 ofpiece E. The double thickness of the material is then cut at oneoperation, and thereby forming the back and side-body sections in onepiece. This same principle applies to the making of shirt-waists orother garments.

- For drafting some styles of childrens garments I employ thesupplementary armholepiece 0, which is moved along slot 8, and itsconcaved edge at piece 0 is set at childs armholemeasure onpiece 0. Thenit is swung outwardly on its pivot. Its lower edge rests against thescrew E and the side-body piece E is moved in slot 8, so that its edge50 lies in line with the straight edge of the piece 0. The parts thusset give the propel-curve to the armhole and the side-body piece E, sothat the seam traced along the edge 50 comes farther under the arm.When-the piece 0 is not in use, as when the device is being employed fordrafting an adults garment, the

same is thrown back out of the way beneath the side-body piece D.

The manner of using the auxiliary sidebody piece E for an unusuallylarge person may be thus explained: The back and sidebodypieces are setand outlined, as before described, in cutting any ordinary back and.

second side-body piece will now be obtained by moving the side-bodypiece E inwardly along the slot 12" on piece F and setting the outeredge 50 of side-body piece E to the desired waist-measure on the lowerseries of graduations, and its, extension 6 is moved .down on piece 0with relation to the edge 50 of piece E and outlined around the inneredge 55 of piece E and also down edge 56, following from beyond thewaist-line to the edge,

then the edge 57 of piece E and the flaring hip edge of the piece F.

Having reference to Fig. 4, J is a front piece having front measuregraduations marked on its lower portion, and at its upper end it forms abroadened extension J in which are parallel longitudinal slots 23. Ad

jacent to these slots are graduations for armhole measurement, and anoblique guide-line 28 is marked on the upper part of this extension. 1 Kis a front shoulder-piece having an elongated narrow extension with alongitudinal slot 29 therein. Near the edge 24 of this piece aregradu'ations' for shonldermeasurements, and its edge 25 is concaved andmeets the edge 24 to form the curve of the neck and the shoulder-seam.Near the edge 25 is a curved slot 26. downwardly and has an oblique slot27 in its lower portion. At the edge of said slot are graduations forneck measurements. This piece K is placed on the extension J so that theslot 27 is in alinernent with guide-line 28 on said extension and isadjustably secured to said extension by set-screw passing through theextension J and slot 27, said screw being also. used for registeringneck graduations adjacent to slot 27. By means of this construction andguide line 28 and neck graduations at slot 2? Iain enabled to positionpieces K and K and L laterally with relation to piece J in asingleoperation for outlining the curve for the side of the neck, andthe slope of the shoulder K is a neck-piece having a slot 43 and isadjustably secured beneath the concaved top portion of piece J byset-screw passing through the latter piece and through slot 4L3. By theside of slot 43 are graduations for neck measurements. The upper edge42'of this piece is concaved and is pivoted near the edge 42 throughslot 26 in piece, as shown in Fig. 4.

L is an armhole-piece of curvilinear form which serves to give theoutline of the arm- This shoulder-piece extends hole and is adjustablysecured to piece K by set-screw passing through the upper end of piece Land slot 29. The lower part of this piece is free and may be swung onits pivotscrew at any angle to the shoulder and to the edge 35 of piece0, which will be described later on.

M is a plate having an oblique edge and a slot 30 parallel with saidedge. Above this edge is a concaved edge M for childs armhole curve.This plate Mis adjustably mounted on extension J said plate havingsetscrews for engaging these slots 23 and adjustably securing said partstogether. Its straight upper edge is used for registering the neckgraduations adjacent to slots 23 for positioning the dart device andpiece 0, which is connected to plate M (which will be presentlydescribed) for determining the length of the armhole and the height ofthe bust and darts.

N and N are dart-strips oppositely curved, eachhavinglongitudinalslots3l. These dartstrips are adjustably secured toplate M by a set-screw passing through their upper ends and through slot30.

N is a slotted waist-piece'provided with graduations for indicating thewidth of the darts at waist.

N and N are extension-strips, in which are longitudinal slots 32. Thepiece N is placed crosswise of the dart-strips, and an extension-stripis adj ustably secured to each of the dart-strips and to the waist-piecebya set-screw passing through the upper end of each of said extensionsand through the slot in piece N and through the slots in the dartstrips,as shown in Fig. 4. The lower end of said extension each have aset-screw through their slots and which passes through slot 33 in theconnecting member j and which-adjustably secures them separately to thepiece j, which will be presently described. By this connection thewaist-piece is capable of carrying the extension-strips longitudinallyin respect to the dartstrips, and the inner dart-strip and itsextension-strip may be adjusted together laterally. By theselongitudinal and lateral adjustments I obtain the length and width ofthe dart at waist and position the extension-strips for extending thedarts below the waist. n is a needle with a longitudinal slot in thecenter portion and is adjustably secured to the waist-piece N by aset-screw passing through the slot in the needle and through the slot inwaist-piece and is set perpendicular to the piece N by theindices in thelatter piece. The points of the needle indicate by their direction whereto position the top of the dart-strips and the bottom of theextension-strips.

O is an under-arm piece having a lateral extension 0. Its upper edge 35is concaved and has a lateral slot 34. Adjacent to this slot are twoseries of bust graduations, the upper series being used for indicatingthe width of the front piece across the bust and the lower series beingused for indicating the width of the bust of the front and under arm inone piece. The figures of the lower series corresponding to the figuresof the upper series are much farther back than those of the upperseries, so that for the same bustmeasure the under-arm piece 0 will bedrawn out much farther when it is desired to cut the front and under-armportion of a garment in one piece. This under-arm piece 0 is adjustablysecured to plate M by a setscrew passing through slot 34 and plate M.Piece 0 extends downwardly and forms on its lower end a lateralextension 0. Edge 58 of this piece 0 is slightly concaved and hasunder-arm measurements marked thereon. Parallel with its edge 58 is alongitudinal slot 38, and its extension 0 has a lateral slot 37 and hasbust graduations adjacent to said slot corresponding to the upper seriesof bust graduations on the extension 0, and it has also an auxiliary setof gradnations on said extension forindicating the width of the front atthe waist and may be read opposite the desired bust-measure.

j is a rectangular connecting member in which is a longitudinal slot inone portion and a horizontal slot 33 in the other portion. Thehorizontal portion of piecej overlaps the extension 0, and aset-screwpassing through the slot 37 and piecej adjustably secures the saidpieces together for lateral adjustments. The other end of this piecej issecured to the lower end of the front piece J by a set-screw passingthrough slot 60 and piece J. By means of this construction and the bustgraduations on the extension 0, corresponding to the bust graduations onthe upper extension 0-, I am able to square my system, as it is called,for the purpose of giving the surplus amount which is to be taken out indarts.

O is a second under-arm piece having a rectangular extension 0 on itsupper end, in which is a slot 47. This under-arm piece 0 is adjustablysecured beneath and to the under-arm piece 0 by a pivotrivet passingthrough the piece 0 and through slot 47. The latter extension has bustgraduations marked thereon corresponding to those on the extension 0 ofpiece 0. Piece 0 extends downwardly and hasa longitudinal slot 51parallel with its edge 49. A- short segmental strip Q is riveted to ashort strip Q, the latter having a longitudinal slot 53 therein and isadjustably secured to piece 0 by rivet 54, passing through slot 53 andpiece 0. This connection permits the pieces Q and Q to be shifted aboveand below the upper end of piece 0 for extending the back part of thearmhole piece the same length from the waist to the armhole as piece E.Fig. 3 is from the waist to the armhole, and pieces Q and Q are alsocapable of lateral adjustment with respect to the pieces 0 and O.

P is a flared hip-piece having a lateral extension p. This extension hasa lateral slot 39 therein. Adjacent to the edge of this slot is a seriesof hustgraduations corresponding to those on the extension 0 and also ananxiliary set of graduatio n's'are marked on said extension. PiecefP isadj ustably secured to piece 0 by rivet passing through slot 51 andpiece P, and the extension p crosses the under-arm piece 0, and a flaredhip-piece P is adjustably secured to the extension 13 and to the piece 0by a set-screw passing through piece P and slots 38 and 39. By thisconnection the pieces P and P may be shifted together longitudinally inthe slots 38 and 51, and the hip-piece P and the piece 0. may beadjusted togetherv laterally with relation to the piece 0. By thislongitudinal and lateral adjustment I obtained the length of the frontand the under-arm pieces and the width at the waist of the under-armpieces and the flare to the skirt belowthe waist of the front andunder-arm pieces. By the hip-pieces P and P being connected, asdescribed, to the pieces 0 and O the dare to the hip portion may bevaried, if desired, without varying the width of the front or under-armpieces.

When it is desired to have what is termed a curved bust, I have providedthe pivot members 3' which are respectively pivoted to the piece J byrivet 44 and 45 and which may be pushed beneath or drawn out frombeneath piece J, according to the desired curve of the bust. Thesemembersj are secured at their junction to a horizontal strip slotted inits center and secured to the front piece J. In order to permit thelateral movement of membersf, they are provided at the pivot with ashort slot, so as topermit of lengthwise movement.

We are now ready to set the appliance, Fig. 4, for ontlining the frontpart of a garment, assuming the measurements to be as hereinbeforegiven. The shoulder-piece K is set so that its slot 27 is in alinementwith guideline 28, and the neck graduation 13 at slot 27 is set at thescrew in said slot and the nut is screwed down. The neck-piece K ismoved so that its neck graduation 13 at slot 43 is read at the concavededge of piece J. The plate M is moved in slots 23, so that its upperedge registers with the graduations 13 on armhole-measurement. Thismovement. of plateM determines the height of the darts, the length ofthearmhole, and determines the height of the bust. Piece 0 is movedlaterally, so that the bust-graduation 38 on the extension 0 is read atthe adjacent edge of plate M, which indicates the width of the bust.Piece L is moved in slot 29, so its -outer edge registers at graduation5, shoulder-measurement on edge 24:. Piece L is then swung on its pirot-screw, so its concaved edge cooperates with edge 35 of piece 0. Theextension 0 is moved laterally, so that the bust graduation 38 onextension 0 is read at the adjacent edge of the connecting memberj. Thehip-pieces P and P are moved together on the piece 0, so that thegraduation 8 un-.

der-arm measure is read at the upper adjacent edges of pieces P and P,and the underarm piece 0 is concealed beneath the underarm piece. 0, sothat edge 58 of piece 0 and edge 40 of piece P are set to run into eachother, and the strips Q and Q are concealed beneath the'under-arm pieceO.

' Theamounts to be allowed for darts are determined as follows: Byreading the auxiliary scale on the extension 0 and on the extension 19opposite the bust-measure 38 on said extension Iobtain the width of thefront and underarm pieces at waist. Then by reading the scale on piece Fopposite waist-measure 24 I obtain the width of the sum of the back andside body I pieces. The three scales combined as read indicates fifteeninches, whichis one-half of the whole garment. However, as thewaist-measure is assumed to be twenty-four inches we have an excess ofthree inches, which is to be taken out in darts. As previously stated,the height of the darts was determined by the position of plateM. Thewaistpiece N is shift-.

ed in slots 31 so that the front measure, 19 inches, on piece J is readat the upper edge of piece N. The inner dart-strip and itsextension-strip are adjusted laterally in slotin piece N to thegraduation three inches. The needle is set midway of this space and isset perpendicular to the indices on the piece N. The dart-strips aremoved in slot 30 until the apex of the angle form by their interioredges are directly opposite the needle. Similarly the extensions of thedart-strips are moved in the slot 33, so their inner edges are directlyopposite the lower point of the needle. When it is desired to out twodarts instead of one, the inner dart-strip end and its extension needbut be contracted the necessary amount moved from left to right one inchat waist.

The front is outlined as follows: along the front outer edge of piece Jand the adjacent strai ht edge of K and edge 42 of K, then edge o and 24of piece K to the outer edge of piece L, along the concaved edge ofpiece L to the junction of the edges 35 and 58, and edge 58 of piece 0and edge 40 of piece P, The darts are outlined on the interior of thedart-strips and their extension-strips. To adjust the appliance foroutlining the underarm piece, the length of the under-arm piece havingbeen previously determined in cutting the front, and as the hip-piecePand P are alreadyset at that point, we have but to ascertain the widthof the under-arm piece of the garment, which is done by moving the piece0 and the piece P together laterally, so that the bust graduation 38 onthe extension 19 is indicated at the adjacent outer edge 58 of the piece0, and the upper end of the piece 0' is moved laterally, so that bustgraduation 38 on extension o is indicated on the adjacent edge 58 ofpiece 0, and piece Q is adjusted longitudinally above the upper end ofpiece 0 and set at the same elevation from waist to armhole as the upperend of piece E, Fig. 3, is from waist to armhole, and the ITS concavededge of strip Q is set to the edge of piece 0. As thus set the under-armportion of the garment is outlined on the inner edge of piece 0 andalong the continuing convex edge of piece P and edge of piece P, edge 48of piece 0, the outer edge of strip Q, and along the concaved edge ofstrip Q. After the pieces for the garment is outlined allowance must bemade for all seams. To set the appliance to outline a shirt-waist or anygarment with the front and under arm in a single piece, it is set thesame as when outlining the front without the under-arm piece, exceptingthat I use the lower row of graduations on the extension 0 for measuringthe front and under arm in one piece, and the strips Q and Q are drawnout from underneath to complete the underarm curve.

Having thus described my invention, I claim as new and desire to secureby Letters Patent- 1. In an appliance for drafting garments, a frontpiece having a broadened upper extension, curved bust-pieces on thefront and a rectangular extension on the bottom, afront shoulder-piece,a front-arm piece, a plate adjustably secured to the front piece, anunder-arm piece with extension, a hip-piece, dart-strips adjustablysecured to the front portion, and a waist-piece with needle adjustablysecured to the dart-strips.

2. In an appliance for drafting the front of garments a front piece,having a broadened extension and an oblique guide-line on said extensionin combination with a front shoulder-piece secured adjustably to saidextension provided with an elongated downward extension a longitudinalslot therein and an oblique slot through its bottom portion havingneck-measurement grad nations thereon, whereby by said graduations andguide-line on said from-piece extension the point of the neck and slopeof the shoulder are determined.

3. In an appliance for drafting the front of garments, the front piecewith top extension having a guide-line thereon and a frontshoulder-piece having a concave edge terminating in a point forindicating the point of the neck, said shoulder-piece revoluble on saidfront piece and adjustable along the guideline thereof, whereby thepoint of the neck and the slope of the shoulder are simultaneouslyestablished by the adjustment of said shoulder-piece.

4:. In an appliance for drafting the front of garments, a front piece, aguide-line on its top portion, in combination with a frontshoulder-piece secured adjustably to the top portion of said front pieceand provided with an elongated downward extension with a longitudinalslot therein, a slot through its bottom portion, neck measurementgraduations thereon, and a front neck-piece secured adj ustably to thefront piece and also secured to the front shoulder-piece andneck-measurement graduations thereon.

5. In an appliance for drafting the front of garments a front pieceforming a broad extension, a guide-line on said extension in combinationwith a front shoulder-piece having an oblique slot in its lower portionand graduations thereon and secured adjustably to the top portion ofsaid front piece and provided with an elongated downward extension withlongitudinal slot therein, and a single arcuate pend ulous frontarmhole-piece secured adj ustably through its top end to the extensionof the front shoulder-piece.

6. In an appliance for drafting garments, a front shoulder-piece havinga slot provided with neck graduations, in combination with a front piecehaving a guide-line and a screw for engaging said slot.

7. In an appliance for drafting the front of garments in combination afront piece having an extension on the top, with graduations thereon aplate longitudinally adjust-able on said extension, and guided by thegraduations on said front-piece extension a front under-arm pieceadjustable transversely of aforesaid plate and longitudinally with same,a rectangular connecting member transversely adjustable at the bottom ofsaid under-arm piece and longitudinally adjustable on the bottom portionof the front piece.

8. In an appliance for drafting the front of garments in combination afront piece with extension, a plate longitudinally adjustable on saidextension, an under-arm piece adj ustable transversely of aforesaidplate and longitudinally with same, a rectangular connecting membertransversely adjustable at the bottom of the under-arm piece andlongitudinally on the bottom of the front piece and a flaring hip-piecelongitudinally adjustable of aforesaid under-arm piece.

9. The combination with a front piece, of a plate adjustablelongitudinally thereon, an under-arm piece adjustably secured to thesaid plate and having a curved edge 35, said under-arm piece beingprovided with bust graduations, a front-shoulder-piece adjustable on thefront piece, and a curved front armhole-piece adjustably secured at itsupper end to the shoulder-piece, the lower end being free, the curve ofsaid arm-piece being adapted to run into the curved edge of theunder-arm piece to form the armhole, substantially as described.

10. In an appliance for drafting the front of a garment, the combinationwith the front piece, a plate longitudinally adjustable thereon, thefront shoulder-piece,adjustable on the front piece as described, andhaving a downward extension, a horizontal slot therein the frontarmhole-piece adjustable along said slot of a front under-armpieceadjustable transversely of the aforesaid plate and IIO with thelatter longitudinally on the aforeing a curved upper edge coiiperatingwith the front-arm pieces, to continue the under-arm curve,substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

11. In an appliance for drafting the front of garments, the combinationwith the front piece of a plate adjustable Vertically thereon, anunder-arm piece having a curved outer edge with under-arm graduationsthereon, and adjustably connected with said plate and a second under-armpiece provided with a transverse slot in its upper portion andadjustable laterally from the aforesaid underarm piece, the slot in thelatter provided With bust-measure indices, a hip-piece with lateralextension and slot therein having bust graduations thereon correspondingto the bust graduation's on the second under-arm piece.

12. In an appliance for drafting the front of garments, a front piece,graduations thereon, a plate vertically adjustable thereon along saidgraduations, an under-arm piece connected to said plate, a secondaryunder-arm piece transversely adjustable from the underarm piece, andslidable-underneath the latter so as to be completely concealed thereby,a strip Q pivotally adjustable to said second under-arm piece, a curvedstrip Q, adjustably pivoted at the top end of the piece Q, both pieces Qand Q adapted to be shifted completely underneath the said under-armpieces so as to be concealed completely thereby for the purpose setforth. 7

13. In an appliance for drafting the front of garments a dart devicecomposed of curved dart-strips, each provided with a longitudinal slot,at horizontally-slotted waist-piece, lower extensions to the dart-stripsslot ted longitudi nally and each secured adjustably through its top tothe waist-piece and also in the slots of the dart-strips, and a needleadj ustably secured in the slot of the waist-piece.

14. In an appliance for drafting the front of a garment, a front piece,curved dart-strips adj ustably secured to said front piece, a waistpiecehaving a longitudinal slot therein, said waist-piece lying crosswise ofsaid dart-strips and an extension-strip being adjustably pivoted to eachof said dart-strips, and to the waist-piece, said waist-piecebeingadjustabl'e longitudinally with relation to said dartstrips,independent of said front piece, and means for determining the properposition of the upper ends of said dart-strips, and the lower ends ofsaid extensions.

15. In an appliance for drafting garments, an under-arm piece, a secondunder arm piece, adjust-ably connected thereto, a strip Q adjustablyconnected to one of the underarm pieces, a curved strip adjustablyconnected to said strip Q and means for adjusting the said curved stripand strip Q longitu' dinally and laterally with respect to saidunder-arm pieces.

16. In an appliance for drafting the front of garments a dart devicecomposed of curved dart strips, slots, therein, a horizontallyslottedwaist-piece, lower extension-strips each provided with a slot andadjustably secured through their tops to the waist-piece and also in theslots of the dart-strips, and a needle adjustably secured in the slot ofthe Waist-piece in combination with a plate to which the top of the dartdevice is adjustably secured and a horizontally-stotted connectingmember in which the lower dart extensions are adjustahly secured.

17. The combination in an appliance for drafting the front of agarment,of curved dart-st rips, longitudinal slots therein, a plate towhich said dart-strips are pivotally secured, a waist-piece adjustablysecured to said dartstrips, lower slotted extension-strips pivoted tothe waist-piece and also through the slots in the dart-strips, and aneedle adjustably secured to said waist-piece for the purpose set forth.

18. The combination in an appliance for drafting the front of a garment,of curved dart-strips, a plate to which said dart-strips are pivotallysecured, a waist-piece adjustably secured to said dart-strips and aneedle secured to said Waist-piece, said waist-piece being horizontallyslotted and having corresponding figures or graduations on both sides ofsaid slot, whereby said needle may be squared to said waist-piece,substantially as described.

19. In an appliance for drafting the front of garments, the combinationwith a front piece of a shoulder-piece adjustable thereon to vary theslope of the shoulder and determine the point of the neck, a graduatedslotted extension on the shoulder-piece, a front-arm piece pivotedadjustably at its upper end in the slotted extension and free at theother end, a plate having a front underarm curve adjustable on saidfront piece said curved frontarm piece arranged to be swung on its pivotto codperate with the curve of said plate to draftthe under arm,substantially as described.

20. In an appliance for drafting the front and under arm of a garment,the combination with a front piece,an under-arm piece having a lateralextension and two series of bust graduations marked thereon, saidimder-arm piece being adjustably secured to said front piece, and meansfor adjusting the under-arm piece longitudinally and laterally withrespect to said front piece.

21. The combination with an under-arm piece of a second under-arm piece,secured beneath the latter adjustable transversely theretoand having alateral top extension with bust graduations thereon,a flaring hippiecehaving a lateral extension with transverse slot therein and having bustgrad uations thereon corresponding to the above bust graduations andconnected to both underarm pieces whereby the under arm at both bust andwaist line can be drafted from the same measurement, substantially asdescribed.

22. The combination with a front piece, a plate thereon, an under-armpiece adjustably secured to said front piece of a second underarm piece,a second under-arm piece secured beneath the former and adjustabletransversely thereof, a flared hip-piece adjustable both vertically andtransversely of said under-arm pieces and a complementary flaringhip-piece adjustable vertically with the aforesaid hip-piece whereby thelength of the under arm of the front, the length of the under-arm pieceand the flare of the hip for under-arm and front pieces aresimultaneously obtained.

23. In an appliance for drafting the front of garments, a front piece,with top extension and graduations on the latter, a plate thereonadjustable to said graduations, an under-arm piece adjustabletransversely of aforesaid plate and provided with a longitudinal slot, aflared hip-piece adjustable longitudinally of said underarm piece andprovided with an extension projecting substantially at right anglesthereto and having a slot therein in which said hip-piece is adjustabletransversely, and acomplementary flared hip-piece adjustable with saidhip-piece on said underarm piece.

24. In a device for drafting garments, the combination with the frontpiece, of a shoulder-piece connected thereto and means for adjusting theslant thereof, a neck-piece adjustably connected to both front andshoulder pieces, the arm-piece L pivoted at one end to theshoulder-piece, a plate on and adjustable longitudinally of the frontpiece, a front under-arm piece 0 adjustable on and laterally of saidplate, and having a curved edge arranged to form a continuation of thelike edge of the aforesaid front-arm piece L and the segmental strip Qadjustable on piece 0 so that its curvilinear edge will form acontinuation of the curved edge of said arm-piece O, substantially asand for the purpose set forth.

25. In an appliance for drafting garments, two under-arm pieces eachhaving longitudinal slots, in combination with a flared hippiece havinga lateral extension and a slot therein, said extension crossing saidunderarm pieces, and said hip-piece being adjustably secured to one ofsaid under-arm pieces, and a flared piece havinga screw for engaging theslot in said extension and the slot in the other under-arm piece, andmeans for determining the longitudinal and lateral position of saidhip-pieces with respect to said underarm pieces, whereby the length andwidth of the under-arm piece, and the flare to the skirt of said piecesmay be obtained in one adjusting operation.

26. In an appliance for drafting garments an under-arm piece, and asecond under-arm piece, in combination with a flared hip-piece having alateral extension, and a slot therein, said extension being adjustablysecured to said under-arm pieces, and a downward-flaring pieceadjustably connected to said extension and one of said under-arm pieces,and means for adj ustingsaid flared pieces together longitudinally withrespect to said under-arm pieces, and said hip-pieces are also capableof swinging movement.

27. An appliance for drafting the back of a garment composed essentiallyof a back shoulder-piece, a downward strip rigidly connected thereto, abust-strip adj ustably secured on said down ward strip, asinglebackpiece adjustably secured to the shoulderpiece, a back armhole-pieceadjustably secured to said shoulder-piece, a side-body piece Dadjustably secured to the armholepiece,aside-bodypieceEandan auxiliarysidebody piece E adjustably secured to the armhole-piece, a waist-piecesecured adjustably to side-body and back pieces, a flaring hippieceintegral with the waistpiece, and a waist -line piece secured adjustablyto the back-piece and waist-piece.

28. In an appliance for drafting garments, a back shoulder-piece havinga downward extension, a bust-strip having bust graduations markedthereon, said bust-strip being adj ustably secured to said extensions,an armholepiece adjustably secured to said shoulderpiece, andcooperating with said graduations and means for holding said parts inoperative position.

29. In an appliance for drafting garments, the combination of ashoulder-piece, an armhole-piece and two longitudinal pieces adj ustablyconnected together to give the outline of the back and side-bodyportions of the garment, and a curved piece adapted to slide upon saidarmhole-piece and adjustably secured thereto in various positionswithout a1- tering the combined width of said back and side-bodyportions.

30. In an appliance for drafting garments, a set of pieces adj ustablymounted together and adapted to give the outline of the back andside-body portions of a garment, combined,

said set of pieces including anarmhole-piece and a waist-piece, and acurved piece for outlining the seam between said back and sidebodyportions, said curved piece capable of adjustment at the armhole-pieceand at the Waist-piece without altering the adjustment of said set ofpieces.

31. In an appliance for drafting garments, a back-piece, a side-bodypiece, and a Waistpiece adj ustably connected together and adjustablelongitudinally and laterally each in reference to the other, the saidback-piece being provided witha series of graduations for indicating theposition for said longitudinal adjustment whereby the length of the backand side-body pieces is obtained by one adjustment of the waist-piece.

shoulder-piece, an armhole-piece, a waist piece, a waist-line piece G, asheath thereon and a side-body piece D adj ustably secured to thearmhole-piece and free at its lower end, said lower end passing throughsaid sheath as specified.

34:. In an appliance for drafting garments,

a back-piece, a side-body piece and a second side-body piece and awaist-piece, adjustably Q connected to said back and side-body pieces,said waistpiece being adjustable laterally' with respect to said backand side -bod-y? pieces and said waist-piece being adjustablelongitudinally on said back and side-body pieces, and said back-pieceand said waistpiece being provided with sets of graduations indicatingthe positions for said adjustments,

whereby the-parts may be set at one adjusting operation to give thelength of the back and side-body seams, and the width of said:

pieces in proportion to waist-measure.

35. The combination with a single waistpiece having an integral flaringhip-piece of a single side-body piece E adj ustably secured in thewaist-piece, a single back-piece adj ustably secured to saidwaist-piece, and a waistline piece with sheath thereon and transverseslot in its top portion, aside-body piece.

VD sliding in said sheath; .the inner edge of said waist-line piece tobe set to the lower edge of the side-body piece D for the purposedescribed.

36. In an appliance for drafting the back and side-body pieces, of agarment, abackpiece, two side-body pieces, and a waist-piece havingaflared extension, and slidable long-i-: tudinally in respect to saidback and side body pieces, and slidable laterally in respect to the backand one of said side-body pieces,

' and a flared piece connected to and carriedlongitudinally bysaidwaist-pieces, said back and Waist pieces being provided with sets ofgraduations indicating the position of said adjustments.

37. In an appliance for drafting the back of a garment a curvilinearback armholepiece, aslightly-concaved outer edge thereon a segmentalslot therein with childs grad uations thereon in combination with asuppleinentary childs' armhole-piece adj ust'ably secured in the saidsegmental slot, having an upper concaved edge and a straight sidef edgefor the purpose described.

38. In an appliance for drafting garments, a back-piece provided with alongitudinal:

slot, a side-body piece, and a second sidebody pieceprovided with alongitudinal slot, 1

in combinnation with a waist-piece having a iliary side-body piece E adjustably pivoted with side-body piece to the armhole-piece, awaist-piece, a flaring hip-piece integral therewith with sheath thereonin which the piece auxiliary side-body piece slides longitudinally, theside-body piece being adjustably secured, to the Waist-piece forlongitudinal and lateral adjustment.

40. In an appliance for drafting the back of a garment, the combinationwith a backpiece and a side-body piece, of a graduated waist-pieceslidably secured to both the backpiece and'the side-body piece,saidwaist-piece being longitudinally and laterally adjustable with respectto the back and side-body pieces, substantially as set forth.

41. The combination with a back-piece, a shoulder-piece, anarmhole-piece adjustably attached to said shoulder piece, and a sidebodypiece adjustably secured to said armhole-piece; of an extra'childsarmhole-piece pivoted at its upper end to the armhole-piece and havingits lower end free, substantially as described.

the combination of a back-piece provided with waist-piece having alateral slot, and a flared piece having a sheath thereon for adj ustablysecuring the side-body piece to the latter piece, and said flared piecehaving an adj usting-screw for engaging the slot in said waistpiece andback-piece, this connection serves to hold all four parts together.

43. In a device for drafting the back of a garnient,the combination withthe back-piece, the side-body piece, the shoulder-piece connected tosaid back-piece as described, the

between the same and the shoulder and side body pieces; of the innerside-body piece adj ustable on the back-arm piece, asingle waistpieceadjustable longitudinally of the back and side-body pieces, both saidpieces adjustable laterally on said waist-piece, substantially as forthe purpose set forth.

44:. In an appliance for drafting the back of a garment, the combinationwith the backpiece, the side-body piece, the back-arm piece, theshoulder piece and adjustable connections between said back-arm pieceand the side'body and shoulder pieces, the said shoulder-piece havingthe graduated edge 5 and 42. In an appliance for drafting garments,

back-arm piece and adjustable connections the corresponding graduations2, and an adjustable connection between said shoulder and back pieces,substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

45. In apparatus for drafting the back of a garment, the combinationwith a shoulderpiece having a slotted downwardly-extending strip 16, ofa bust-piece graduated to bustmeasure, one end thereof adjustablypivoted in the slot of said strip 16 and a single backarm pieceadjustably connected to the shoulder-piece and positioned by saidbust-piece, substantially as described.

46. The combination with the shoulderpiece provided with the slottedstrip 16, the bust-strip adjustable in said slotted strip 16, theback-piece adjustable in an angular direction on and relatively to saidshoulderpiece, the back-arm piece adjustable lengthwise of theshoulder-piece, the side-body piece adjustable along an arc of a circleon said arm-piece and the waist-piece adjustable lengthwise of the backand side-body pieces for vertical and lateral adjustment; of the innerside-body piece constructed as described, adjustable along the aforesaidarc of a circle on the arm-piece, substantially as and for the purposeset forth.

4:7. The combination with the shoulderpiece provided with the slottedstrip 16, the bust-strip adjustable in said slotted strip 16, theback-piece adjustable in an angular direction on and relatively to saidshoulderpiece, the back-arm piece adjustable lengthwise of theshoulder-piece, the side-body piece adjustable along an arc of acircleon said armpiece, the waist-piece adjustable lengthwise of the back andside-body pieces for vertical and lateral adjustment and the innersidebody piece constructed as described, adjustable along the aforesaidarc of a circle on the arm-piece; of an auxiliary side-bod y piece onthe arm-piece and slidably connected with the waist-piece, substantiallyas and for the purpose set forth.

48. The combination with the shoulderpiece provided with the slottedstrip 16, the bust-strip adjustable in said slotted strip 16, theback-piece adjustable in an angular direction on and relatively to saidshoulderpiece, the back-arm piece adjustable lengthwise of theshoulder-piece, the side-body piece E adjustable along an arc of acircle on said 7 arm-piece, the waist-piece adjustable lengthwise of theback and side-body pieces for vertical and lateral adjustment and theinner side-body piece, constructed as described, adjustable along theaforesaid arc of a circle on the arm-piece; of an auxiliary side-bodypiece on the arm-piece and slidably connected with the waist,- theflared extension F, integral therewith and the waist-line piece adjustable vertically of the back-piece and inner side-body piece andlaterally of the waistpiece, back-piece and piece D substantially as andfor the purpose set forth.

49. The combination with the shoulderpiece A, the back-piece B connectedwith and adjustable relatively to said shoulder-piece as described, thearm-piece 0 connected with and adjustable relatively to saidshoulderpiece, the side-body piece E adjustable along an arc of a circleon said arm-piece, and the waist-piece F connected for adjustment withthe back and side-body pieces as set forth; of the auxiliary side-bodypiece E adjustable with the side-body piece E on arm-piece O andslidably connected with the said waistpiece F, substantially as and forthe purpose set forth.

50. In an apparatus for drafting garments, the combination with aback-piece, of a shoulder-piece adj ustably connected thereto and aback-arm piece adjustably connected to the shoulder-piece, a side-bodypiece adj ustably connected to the arm-piece, and an extra childsarm-piece adj ustably connected with the back-arm piece, said armpiecesbeing of difierent curvature and adapted to cooperate to draft the backof the armhole, substantially as described.

51. In a device for drafting the back of a garment, the combination witha shoulderpiece and back-arm piece adjustably connected therewith; of awaist-piece having a waist-line piece G adjustably and pivotallyconnected thereto, a side-body piece D adj ustable along an arc of acircle of the aforesaid back-arm piece, said piece D tapering to a pointand laterally movable in a sheath on the waist-line piece whereby thewaist-line piece G is adapted to be rotated to aline the pattern -1inetraced to the waist along the aforesaid side-body piece and point ofsaid body-piece to give the proper flare to the skirt, as described.

- 52. In a device for drafting the back of a garment, the combinationwith the shoulderpiec e A provided with parallel graduations, theback-piece B constructed and adjustable on and relatively to saidshoulder-piece as set forth, the back-arm piece connected with andadjustable lengthwise of the shoulder-piece,

the side-body piece E connected with and adjustable along an arc of acircle on the backarm piece, the waist-piece F having the integral pieceF at one end, said waist-piece connected for adjustment longitudinallyand laterally relatively to the back and side-body pieces; of thewaist-line piece pivoted to and adjustable lengthwise of the waist-pieceF, and the inner side-body piece constructed as described, andadjustable along the aforesaid arc of a circle on back-arm piece 0 andslidable longitudinally and laterally in a sheath on said waist-linepiece G, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

53. In a device for drafting the back of a garment, the combination withthe shouldernected for adjustment with the aforesaid I3 piece, theback-arm piece connected with and back and side-body pieces asdescribed, for adjustable lengthwise of said shoulder-piece; the purposeset forth.

a. single back-piece and a single sidebody In witness whereof I havehereunto set my piece, said back-piece connected with and adhand.

jnsteble on and relatively to the shoulder- JANE ROBBERT. piece, andsaid side body piece connected Witnesses: with and adjustable along anarc of a circle S. H. NOURSE, on the back-arm piece; of a. waist-piececon- CHAS. E. TOWNSEND.

